Why can't I access meta from a property defined in setupController?

In setupController, i have:

controller.set('products', this.store.query('product', { filter: { 'user-id': model.id }, page: { number: (params.page ? params.page : 1) } }));

Which returns:

{"meta":{"page":{"number":1,"size":10,"total":17,"prev":null,"next":2,"first":1,"last":17}},"data":[{..}, {..}]`

In the template, why does {{log products.meta}} return undefined?

I do the same query in a model hook and meta actually returns valid data. Is there something special going on with setupController?